Plain Weave vs. Dobby Weave

What’s the difference between a plain weave and a dobby weave? And why should you care in the first place? We’ll tackle both of these questions below.

What is a plain weave?
As the name implies, a plain weave is about the most straightforward way that exists to create a fabric. In this process, vertical yarns (called the warp) and horizontal yarns (call the weft) and woven together in a crisscross pattern that forms a sort of basket weave. Fabrics created from plain weave include oxford, pinpoint oxford, poplin and broadcloth.

In addition to its crisscrossed weave (which is more or less noticeable depending on the fabric), plain weave fabrics generally have a flatter hand and texture.

What is a dobby weave”
Dobby weave  is also woven with a warp and weft, but is created with a special tool called a “dobby” that can lift the warp, allowing geometric patterns to be created. Aside from these more visually interesting patterns, dobby weaves may also create a raised texture.

When to wear a plain weave shirt
Plain weave shirts are the vanilla ice cream of the fabric world, which means that they’re highly versatile and can be worn in just about any situation, from a navy gingham shirt with shorts and sneakers to pinpoint oxfords with suits and ties.

You’ll love plain weave shirts if you’re looking for versatile shirts that can be worn casually or with suits in a wide variety of scenarios.

You should skip plain weave shirts only if you’ve already added a few to your weekly rotation.

When to wear a dobby weave shirt
The ability to add geometric patterns and raised textures to dobby weave shirts makes them more visually interesting, but also less versatile all-around.

You’ll love dobby weave shirts if you want to add more variety to your shirt rotation.

You should skip dobby weave shirts if you’re just beginning to build your professional wardrobe.