It’s well-trod ground that solid suits tend to be a bit more versatile than patterned suits. But that rule doesn’t capture the whole story. There are differences in formality and wearability within patterned suit fabrics, and some of those differences owe to scale.

What’s the difference between small-scale patterns and large-scale patterns?
Said simply, the scale of a pattern refers to the size of the pattern itself. A small-scale pattern is smaller in size, and may even appear closer to a solid suit from a distance. A large-scale pattern is greater in size, and makes itself clear from any distance.

Whether you prefer to wear a small-scale or large-scale pattern is up to you, but there are a number of factors that you may want to take into account before making your decision.

When to wear small-scale patterns
Due to its more subtle nature, a small-scale pattern will be more versatile than a large-scale pattern and fit more easily into professional situations. Its versatility factor also makes it less challenging to wear as a full suit. You may be able to wear a small-scale glen plaid suit once or twice per week without making its repetition too obvious, while wearing a large-scale windowpane suit each week will attract more notice (and leave a more memorable impression).

When to wear large-scale patterns
Yes, it takes a little more courage and skill to wear a large-scale patterned suit, but if that’s what you have your heart set on (and assuming you already own a solid navy or grey suit), then by all means go for it. But an easier way to wear a large-scale patterned fabric is to have it made into a sportcoat rather than a full suit. This way, you can balance out the visual weight of the pattern by pairing it to a pair of grey wool trousers, khaki chinos, or even denim. In fact, the more casual nature of a large-scale pattern makes it an excellent choice for off-duty and weekend wear.